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Monday, 26 November 2012

Happy Muslin of Burda 7273

 

A while ago, I visited Exeter (UK) when DD had a dance audition to be in the musical Cats (Andrew Lloyd Webber music with  T S Eliot’s cat poems.)

Whilst Beth danced, I found this great little fabric shop http://www.memefabricshop.co.uk/shop/  Meme.  It had only a limited range of fabrics, but sometimes that makes the fabric that is there, stand out.  The owner was great, helpful and knowledgeable.

This is what I bought:

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A soft knitted wool fabric, expensive but light as a whisper – it washed beautifully too.

Wary of cutting into such wonderful cloth, I bought some fleece to make a muslin of Burda 7273

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I think I count this as a wearable muslin, it is really comfy and has only a few niggles.

I made the version with the collar, reducing the size of the collar, and making a jacket length (I only bought 2m of my wool fabric.)  I also added a button and loop so I can close it.

 

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cut down collar                                                   reduced hem

I also put darts in the back to make it more fitted, I don’t think the dart position is quite right can anyone advise?

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The collar does sit flat, just that Graham didn’t spot the wrinkle when he photographed.  I count this as a wearable muslin, so am not worried about the sleeve insertion wrinkles – I can sort them.

Tuesday, 20 November 2012

Olive Moleskin Waistcoat/vest with Funky Lining

  

Burda 7854  Burda’s description: A hip-length vest/waistcoat with figure-accenting section seams is the perfect partner for pants/trousers and pullover. Make it from quilted fabric for a sporty look or use faux fur for dramatic impact. Both will warm you on cooler days.

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I downloaded this ages ago from http://sewingpatterns.com/  Living in the UK, sometimes it is easier to download patterns than buy them, I use sewingpatterns.com frequently.

I have recently lost weight and was not sure which size to use, I intended to trace a 14 but did a 12 by mistake. I just about got away with it, I have another 8lb to lose so it should be just right by then.

I traced the pattern and cut out my muslin when I was at a sewing get together in Kent.  My dear friend Sigrid helped with the fit, and what a superb job she made.

I changed the design a bit, I made it quite a bit shorter.  I also made it from cotton moleskin instead of fur fabric, I think this was a bad move because a number of the design features where for a particular fabric.

The instructions were not bad, this was the first lined garment I have made for many a year and I suspect there may be easier ways than the method I followed from the Burda instructions.

Fabric Used:  Outer fabric is olive cotton moleskin bought in Paris on my first ever PR meet up. Lining is a brocade with dragon flies bought from http://www.mrosenbergandson.com/index.htm, their website seems to be under maintenance at the moment but I'm sure their great fabrics will return.

Pattern alterations or any design changes:

I love the armhole princess and also the collar which keeps my neck warm. I added a wedge shape to the collar centre back so it stood away from my neck (I have had surgery on my neck and it doesn't like pressure.)

The main change is to shorten the  pattern, in the event, I seem to have shortened it a bit too much. I will add an inch or so next time.

I used a moleskin instead of a fur or quilted fabric. I hate to think how difficult it would be to sew the collar with fur.

I think I should have made the version with the rounded front, it would have been much easier to understitch too.

I added two inside pockets - one for my phone and one for a hanky IMG_1197photostream

I will make this again, a bit longer next time. I forgot to do the under collar on the bias, I also didn't allow for turn of cloth, I'm sure I will do a better job next time.

Because it is designed for fur fabric, the centre front is lined rather than faced. I used a contrast lining and in hindsight this was not a great idea because it shows at the centre front.

I used a black frog fastener I found in my stash – no idea where it came from (will photograph in the daylight tomorrow)

I definitely recommend this pattern, it is easy to fit and looks stylish.

Please excuse the badly fitting trousers, I am experimenting with taking them in – this attempt is not my best.

 

This project seemed to go on forever, I am already onto my next, a wearable muslin for Burda 7275

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