McCall’s 6208 in Grey Jersey from Amsterdam

I was having problems with the exposure on the camera, this photo shows the front view well but makes me look rather orange.

As mentioned a while ago, I started to make a jacket from Grey Jersey I bought in Amsterdam when a group of fellow sewists from around Europe met up.

The pattern is Mcalls 6208

Loose fitting, below hip length cardigans A, B, C, D, E; cardigans A, B, C have notched collar and shaped hem; cardigans A, D are sleeveless; cardigans B, C, E have long sleeves; cardigan B has elasticized sleeve seam at lower edge; cardigans A, B have back belt; cardigan C has belt; cardigans D, E have lapel and drop shoulders; cardigan D has patch pockets.

I made view B. I made a medium size because it matched up with the measurements of a favourite cardigan. I love the fact that the jacket is made from a comfortable jersey yet it has smart  lapels like a jacket.

This pattern was well drafted, all the notches lined up, and the sleeves went smoothly into the armhole with no wrinkles.

I made a few alterations to fit my body.

I lowered the back neck and curved the back centre seam in at the top, to accommodate my rounded upper back.

I also narrowed the chest at the armhole fronts and enlarged the sleeves to allow for my muscular arms (many months spent using crutches due to feet breaking mean that my biceps are well formed.)  I was really pleased that the sleeves fitted in smoothly to the armholes.

I shortened the overall garment by at least 4 inches (I am 5’ 2.5”) and made a design change to the back.

There is a half belt at the back, I shortened this to fit my waist thus forming a peplum look to the back of the jacket.  I feel this gives it a current look.  This shortening meant that the jacket body was pulled in to fit the belt, this did tend to cause lumps and bumps rather than a smooth gathered look.  My solution was to run a gathering stitch along the waistline and after adjusting the gathers, I sewed it again to hold the gathers in place.

 

I like the way the lapels and collar facing were formed, 2 separate pieces were created and sewn together – I haven’t sewn many collars and this was the most successful to far.

I like to have pockets in my jackets so I can carry my phone and a tissue.  I originally intended to make side seam pockets but when I pulled the back belt shorter, the pockets gaped.  My solution was to make a hanging pocket from the left armhole.

This isn’t ideal because it does pull a bit on the jacket front, but it is better than not having anything.

I did have a problem in the inside where the front facing met the front, there seemed to be too many bits of fabric at odd angles to lay flat and behave.

 

I did manage to do the top stitching with the help of my Humper Jumper, but it is not the most beautiful on the inside.

The sleeves are really cute, such an easy trick.  After stitching the underarm seam of the longer than usual sleeve, an extra seam 1/4” away within the seam allowance is sewn from the wrist up for about 15cm.  Within this, a piece of elastic (11cm) is threaded and the ends secured – result, a cute gathered detail.

I think I will search my stash for some more heavyweight jersey.  This is so comfy to wear, I must have another one.